Lash Mapping

When creating a set of lash extensions, lash mapping is super important! Outlining your lash lengths and segments on an eye pad before you begin lashing allows you to consider the shape and features of each eye individually, and therefore create the perfect shape to suit your clients. Yes, you are able to do a similar type of lash map for each client, but no one’s eyes are identical so each map may have to be tweaked slightly. 

Why do we lash map?

One of the main benefits of lash mapping is that it helps to maintain symmetry between both eyes. There is nothing worse than perfecting a look on one eye, and then struggling to mirror it on the second eye, it can be really time consuming and frustrating trying to achieve symmetry so eyelash mapping really helps with this. Also, when you lash map, it makes working with layers so much easier, and with everything you want to do planned out in front of you, it cuts down treatment time too.

When choosing the right lash map, it is vital to determine what shape eye your client has. If you use the wrong lash map this may not suit your clients eye shape, and will not show your work to its best potential, and most importantly your client may not be happy with their lashes. There are six main eye shapes that your client may have; round, hooded, monolid, downturned, upturned and almond. It is important to understand these different eye shapes, and what eye shape your clients have so you can map to compliment them. 

How to lash map:

To begin lash mapping, all you need is some eye pads and a pen. If you are new to lash mapping, it’s a great idea to get your client to send you a picture of their eyes, that way you can look at their eye shape beforehand. Once you have decided on the eye shape of your client, you can then choose your lash style. However, always check this with your client as they may have a desired look they want to achieve. 

There are loads of different lash styles:

There’s the natural look – where you are imitating your clients natural lashes, just a mm or 2 longer.

The “Squirrel” where the longer length is just past the pupil, towards the outer corner, and then goes down short again. This produces a natural looking style where the longest lashes are applied under the arch of the eyebrow.

The “Cat” – This look creates the illusion of more feline eyes, where you would use the longest lashes towards the outer corer of the eyes.

Then there’s, “Doll” – Where the longer lengths are in the middle of the lashes, to create the appearance of more large & open eyes. Hence the name “Doll” / “Dolly” eyes. 

At Lash Dolls U.K. our signature lash looks are our “Wispy” lashes. This is why founder Grete created The Ultimate Wispy Lash Maps manual! The manual contains 20 pages of tips and tricks along with 3 different wispy lash looks for you to try, learn and create. 

We have created a step by step guide into lash mapping below, using a “Doll” eye look as an example:

Pro tip * Make sure when lash mapping, you use all lengths for a more natural look.

  1. Mark on your client’s lid where their pupil is. Ensure this mark sits closer to the eyebrow so you don’t lose it when cleansing the lashes.
  1. Prep your client as normal and put on under-eye pads.
  1. Taking the pupil mark (from step 1), mark where your longest lash will go, this will be the middle for the “Doll” eye look – but remember this will vary depending on the style of lash map you are creating.
  1. Split the under-eye pad into sections graduating to both inner and outer corners.
  1. Isolate a lash within the longest length in the middle. Then take your lash extension (with no adhesive) and measure it against your clients natural lash until you have the most similar length.
  1. This then allows you to see what length lash extensions you should be using. We recommend using around one third longer than the clients natural lash. However always consult with your client first, as they may prefer shorter lashes, or longer lashes. But for example, if the natural lash measured 9mm, the longest lash extension you should use would be 12mm. Take the lash extensions (12mm in this example) and measure this, with the application gap, to see if it is the correct length.
  1. You now have your middle length for your lash map. Write this number (e.g. 12) in the middle section.
  1. Now write your inner corner length,  this could be a 6, 7 or 8 etc..
  1. Graduate the lengths in between the inner corner and middle lengths and do the same going back to the outer corners.
  1. Repeat on the other eye.

If you would like a more in-depth guide to lash mapping, and would like to learn how to achieve the Lash Dolls U.K. signature wispy lash then you can shop The Ultimate Wispy Lash Maps manual here!


Written by Lucy Askham